Friday, 28 October 2016

48 hours in Barcelona, Spain


Barcelona. A fantastic city... even if you are forced to keep checking your wallet is still there every 30 seconds.

Read on...


Who to go with?

The wife/hubby - Definitely. Lots of great food and culture to soak up.

The lads/ladies - Sure. There's plenty of bars and nightlife to get amongst.

Where to stay in Barcelona?

We made the decision to stay in the Gothic Quarter, on a side street off Las Ramblas - it seemed to be close to everything we wanted to see whilst remaining close to the nightlife. We tried to do Barcelona on a bit of a budget, so we decided to stay in a budget Guesthouse on Carrer de la Portaferrissa - but we weren't too impressed by the accommodation, so I won't bother linking or naming it.

The metro in Barcelona is really efficient and if you're planning on zipping around and using it a lot, I'd recommend buying a T10 ticket. A T10 works out much cheaper than buying tickets for individual journeys and you can grab them at the entrance to any metro station. You can also share the ticket by passing it back to your travelling buddy after you've passed through the barriers.

Cool things to do in Barcelona?

One of the first things I planned when we booked our flights to Barcelona, was to secure tickets for an FC Barcelona match. Some travellers suggest doing the stadium tour, but I'd always prefer actually going to the game and soaking up the atmosphere rather than touring the trophy room (which is probably huge, to be fair!) We managed to get tickets to watch Barcelona host Granada through ticketing vultures Viagogo - paying well over the odds, but knowing that we're only likely to do this once. The game finished with a home win 1-0, so the locals were in high spirits for our journey home.

Pre-match at Nou Camp
If you're in the Barri Gothic area and you're mildly interested George Orwell then it's worth swinging by Placa George Orwell for a few minutes. Here you will find a sculpture which has been built in homage to Orwell in the middle of what is known as Acid Square (due to drug dealers apparently frequenting the area). There's a few cafes and bars surrounding the square and it's an interesting place to people watch for a short while. Ironically, this was the first place in Barcelona to install CCTV.

It was a bright day in April, and the clocks were striking thirteen.
No trip to Barcelona would be complete without a visit to the Sagrada Familia. Grab the metro. Head towards the aptly named Sagrada Familia metro station. As you ascend the escalator out of the underground station and you reach ground level, you'll be stunned by the size of the cathedral which is immediately in front of you. There are plenty of crowds around (probably the busiest areas we came across in Barcelona) and there are gates protecting the cathedral. Entry inside should be booked in advance, but as we didn't have much time at this stage in our trip we were happy to simply experience the outside of the cathedral. For the best photo opportunity, walk to the far side of the little lake which is in front of the cathedral. Here you can get a picture which is mostly away from other tourists and you'll have a back drop of the lake and Sagrada Familia in full.

It's too huge to get a full photo!
If your schedule (and weather) allows, go and spend an hour or two on Barceloneta Beach. It's an excellent place for a relaxed stroll - just don't forget to keep out of the cycle lanes and make sure you don't get run over by the segway groups. There's plenty of restaurants and bars on the front, but they're not the cheapest and neither are they places which you're likely to remember.

Put some time aside to spend an afternoon at another one of Gaudi's creations, Park Guell. Wear comfortable footwear as you'll be clocking up the mileage walking to and around the park. Park Guell is fairly well signposted, and as you get close there are a couple of cafes which claim to be "the last café before Park Guell" and they encourage you to buy from their store as apparently there's no food/drink available inside the attraction. We were quite dubious of this, but took their advice anyway and stocked up on some sandwiches and drinks before we made our way into the park. This turned out to be a good choice because the cafés were correct, and there were in fact no facilities available at all inside. Entering the park itself is quite odd - there's lots of graffiti around the entrance saying "humans welcome, tourists not" and "go home tourists, we don't need your money". We ignored these warnings and headed inside anyway. The park is split into two; there's an outer ring, which is free and has plenty to see and do - and would probably make a great day out in it's own right. Then there's the inner area, which you have to show/buy a ticket to get inside. We were initially unsure how to actually get inside as we were looking for large queues to indicate a way in, but as there are multiple staffed entrances where you can get inside this reduces any need to queue. Inside is where you will find all of the trademark Gaudi architecture; Doric columns, mosaic ceilings, the huge serpentine bench surrounding the large open square (ideal spot to each your sandwiches which you smuggled in earlier) and much more. There's absolutely loads to see here - highly recommended.

Wandering around Park Guell
What to avoid?

Avoid unnecessary queues by booking online for anything Gaudi related.

Where to eat in Barcelona?

The most notable place we ate in Barcelona was a little diner called Bao Bao. We had no idea what we were ordering, and had even less of an idea when our food arrived - but it tasted great. Some sort of Asian street food apparently. Not exactly a place to head to for an evening meal, but great for a quick snack and a beer.

Beer and a bao
For the best sangria, mojitos and paella, head to a bar/restaurant called Patagonia Bar on Las Ramblas. It's a bit strange finding it as you have to enter a kebab shop on the ground floor, then find the stairs at the back which leads you upstairs to Patagonia. We went there twice and were lucky enough to get a balcony seat on both occasions (which you usually have to reserve in advance). Here you can eat and drink whilst spending some time watching the crowds of people below you on the busy Las Ramblas. I was convinced I'd spot some pick-pockets here, but never did. You'll notice that free shots from the staff keep arriving at your table. Maybe that's why I remember this place fondly?

Beatles in Barcelona?

We'd heard of a Beatles themed bar near Camp Nou, so we eagerly made our way here one evening. Unfortunately when we arrived, La Garrafa dels Beatles was closed - with no indication of if it was due to bar opening times, or if it had shut down months ago. Gutted.

Unique bars in Barcelona?

For craft beer fans, hunt down Craft Barcelona. We actually found it by mistake as it's at the end of a typically alluring dark alley. There's a huge selection of beers available (bottled and draught) and they also put on some pintxos (bar snack/tapas-y sort of thing) for €1 per mouthful! It's very quirky inside with a huge emphasis on good music too. Positive on all fronts! The staff are great and if you're unsure what beer you want, they offer some suggestions and give you little tasters to get you started.

Craft Barcelona and their selection of pintxos
How long to stay in Barcelona?

Barcelona is one of the few places where, when leaving, makes me wish I'd stayed much longer. We stayed for a weekend, but I could have easily stayed for a full week.


Note: everyone bangs on about how you're going to get pickpocketed in Barcelona. We didn't. I was only paranoid about it for roughly 99% of our stay, and I only checked my wallet every 30 seconds. But, in the end, we were both completely safe and saw nothing untoward. Gracias.

Friday, 30 September 2016

Cool things to do in Paris, France

Paris. In my opinion - the worlds greatest city break.

Read on...


Disclaimer...
You will not struggle to find cool/unique things to do in Paris. I've visited 4 times in as many years, and the below is a collection of its "greatest hits".


Also, take decent footwear (i.e. trainers) because you're going to end up doing a lot of walking in Paris whether you intend to or not.

Who to go with?

The wife/hubby - Absolutely. Apparently, some people even get engaged there!

The lads/ladies - Not the place for a hen/stag do. But if you're a group of culture-vultures, you'll love it.

Where to stay in Paris?

We've stayed in a variety of places in Paris, all in different districts and all geared towards different budgets. Below is a run down of where we stayed which should offer an option for various travellers.


Les Argonautes is a small, cheap but clean hotel. It's situated very close to Saint-Michel/Notre Dame area, so is in an excellent location. There's plenty of bars and restaurants on your doorstep which can be a good thing, or a bad thing. If you're planning on being amongst the noise and tearing through the restaurants and bars then you'll love this place. However, if you're expecting a quiet nights sleep - then forget this place. There's a Greek restaurant directly opposite the hotel where the staff stand outside smashing hundreds of plates throughout the night/early morning. If you take earplugs (or drink plenty of beer/wine) then I'm sure you'll sleep through it.


Perfect Hotel & Hostel was our mega budget accommodation. As the name suggests, it's a hostel, but it's perfect for travelling on a budget. The rooms were basic, but clean and tidy - with no horror stories to speak of. Check-in and staff are great, and I always find you get a real friendly experience from using hostels. It's located close to the red light district of Paris, which wasn't a problem at all and everywhere felt completely safe - why wouldn't it? We were close to Moulin Rough (although didn't actually go inside) and great for getting to Sacre Coeur and Montmatre (more on these later). For one of the cheapest nights sleep in Paris - I'd highly recommend checking this place out.


Hotel de Latour Maubourg was one of our more expensive stays in Paris, hence we only stayed here for one night. It's proximity to the Eiffel Tower and fancy décor justify the cost though. We got up early one morning and walked from Latour Maubourg in the direction of Eiffel Tower, which takes you through various small streets lined with market stalls. We were able to buy some fresh fruit and ended up having strawberries on the grass in front of the tower well before the hoards of tourists arrived.


Apostrophe Hotel is a stylish boutique hotel situated in a fairly large, but quiet street. It's priced in the mid-range, but we chose it as the rooms were decorated in a quirky way (we stayed in the music room, which was uniquely decorated with sheet music). Situated close to Luxembourg Gardens (more on this later). Excellent mid range accommodation for the average traveller.

Pompidou Centre
Cool things to do in Paris?

The first thing we did when we arrived in Paris was to head to the world famous Deyrolle. My wife had no idea why I was dragging her across Paris as quickly as I could, and I wasn't exactly sure what to expect here either. I've always had a mild curiosity of taxidermy and this place is apparently a leader in its field. It's essentially a huge collection of curiosities with the feel of a museum, and art displays (we were lucky enough to see some Damien Hirst exhibitions during our visit). There's a strict no photography policy, but if you're sneaky enough you can always grab a few snaps. Ignore the bottom floor - unless you need to stock up on top end gardening supplies - then head upstairs for the beautifully odd main event!

Where else could you see this, other than at Deyrolle?
For a uniquely charming evening, grab yourself a screw-top bottle of red wine, steal some glasses from your hotel room, buy a baguette and grab the metro to Pont Neuf. When you reach street level, cross the bridge heading south, and descend the slightly hidden staircase to find yourself on Square du Vert-Galant. Get here before sunset to guarantee some good floor space where you can sit on the edge of the island with your feet dangling over the river Seine whilst you enjoy your wine and snacks. This is a hot-spot for students to hang out and drink, dance and smoke stuff whilst the sun goes down. It's likely that there'll be plenty of young Parisians playing acoustic guitars and you'll probably be approached by some questionable characters who wander around groups trying to sell beer by the individual can, but overall it's a bohemian atmosphere (but maybe that's because I had a belly full of wine by this stage?) Great views all round and a very memorable experience.

Wine at Square du Vert-Galant
If you have an interest in literature then a visit to Shakespeare and Company is a must. This book store is rich in history and was a regular haunt for Hemingway and F Scott Fitzgerald. It's well worth having a mooch around and treating yourself to a book. I appropriately bought Hemingways A Moveable Feast which was his memoir written when he lived in Paris. Be sure to ask for the book to be stamped when you're buying. Again, this is another no photography establishment.

If you are lucky enough to have lived in Paris as a young man, then wherever you go for the rest of your life, it stays with you, for Paris is a moveable feast.
Great views of the entire city can be found at Sacre-Coeur. Take the funicular up the hill (otherwise there's a lot of steps to climb). Take some time to relax on the grass outside the church. Stroll around Montmatre. Apparently this area is a pick-pocket hot-spot, but we never had cause for concern.

I'm not normally one for aimlessly wondering around public gardens, but I must admit - I did enjoy Luxembourg Gardens. Take a bottle of wine, find a bench and spend some time people-watching and enjoying the colourful scenery in the sunshine. Everywhere you look here there's groups of people engaging in all sorts of different activities; from old Parisians playing bowls, large picnics, even young couples walking their cats! I actually got engaged to my wife here too - the perfect place.

Also, French law states that tourists must also visit:
  • Eiffel Tower (I've never managed to reach the top unfortunately. Vertigo),
  • Musee du Louvre,
  • Notre Dame Cathedral,
  • Arc de Triomphe.

Breakfast in Paris. Note; no other tourists.
How long to stay in Paris?

I'd say that the length of your stay in Paris is totally flexible. The longer you stay, the more you will see and experience. Whether two days, or two weeks - you'll enjoy it.

Monday, 1 August 2016

Unique places in Athens, Greece

Athens. The capital city of Greece and it's proper old.


Who to go with?

The wife/hubby - Yes. Definitely.

The lads/ladies - Not quite a destination for a booze-up as there's far too much to culture to soak up.

Where to stay in Athens?

We stayed in the Psiri area which felt fairly central and was really close to Thissio metro station (although we didn't use public transport much as everything seemed to be located fairly centrally. Very thoughtful of the Greeks!) We stayed in O&B Athens Boutique Hotel, which we were a bit concerned about as we approached it as the area it's in seemed a little strange - there's sex shop on the corner, bins overflowing everywhere and graffiti on all vertical surfaces. However, once we entered the hotel it was first class. Eventually we felt at ease with the area and slowly began to actually enjoy it's quirkiness.

Some real deep street art
Cool things to do in Athens?

Seeing the Acropolis is pretty much mandatory whilst in Athens. But to avoid the crowds (and the unforgiving heat) I'd recommend going early in the morning. You'll need to wear sensible footwear, as there's plenty of uneven pathways and a good amount of steps which you'll need to tackle. Also, take a few bottles of water as you will sweat bucket-loads and funnily enough there's no Starbucks at the top. Some people complain about the €20 entrance fee, but come on... it's a magnificent feat of architecture.
It's also worth revisiting the area after sunset as small bars pop up on the walkway leading up the hill and plenty of market stalls where you can buy your holiday shit-knacks. Also, the Acropolis itself at night is lit up and almost appears to be floating mid air due to the unique up-lighting angles.

Something old...
Athens is a great city for simply wandering around without any real destination in mind. You'll find yourself discovering unique little areas - some may be whitewash neighbourhoods (similar to the those seen on Santorini postcards), others may be covered top to bottom in graffiti, some may be hiding more ancient landmarks.

Our boutique hotel (not really!)
How much is a pint?

Expect to pay roughly €4.50 for a large beer.

Where to eat in Athens?

First off... the food in Athens is amazing and we didn't have anything less than a great experience everywhere we ate.

But the best place we ate was Oineas. A traditionally Greek restaurant decorated with vintage bits and bobs. We didn't book a table so simply turned up in the evening and was seated right away on a table outside. The staff were great. The wine was brilliant and there was even a "house dog" which appeared to bark at people who walked past the restaurant without coming in! Clever marketing.

Do you like wine? Do you like strong cheese? Do you like meat? If so, get yourself a table at Ta Karamanlidika tou Fani. It's a strange setting for a restaurant but sitting down to eat a meal inside a butchers is definitely something out of the ordinary. I'd recommend booking a table here as it's fairly small and can only accommodate a limited number of diners.

This is what you'll see if you look up in Ta Karamanlidika tou Fani
If you fancy something quick and simple, I would suggest stopping off at School Pizza Bar. But beware, the pizzas are huge - so take your appetite along. We struggled to finish ours but the waiter kindly boxed up what we couldn't manage and took it home with us (never to be eaten!)

The Beatles in Athens?

Yes! There's a sandal maker/artist in the centre of Athens where apparently John Lennon visited and had some sandals custom made for him. The place is called Melissinos Art (The Poet Sandal Maker) and as we entered there were various people milling around looking at the different varieties of sandals available. I burst in and explained I'd take nothing except the same ones Lennon had. The staff sit you down and get measuring - they also check your natural walk and accommodate all sandal straps accordingly. The whole process takes about 20 minutes and you end up with your own "fab" sandals for roughly €40 (a bit expensive, and admittedly I haven't actually worn them since returning home - I just had to have them). There's a long list of other celebrities who have had sandals created for them here too.

My Lennon sandals being made
Unique bars in Athens?

We frequently visited BeerTime which serves a wide variety of craft beers and is located in a bustling little square within Psiri. The taster selection of beer is a good way to start before you find a your new favourite beer.

Be sure to visit Six D.O.G.S which is a hidden garden bar filled with trees, tunes and cocktails. We sat at the bar here and had a good laugh with one of the bartenders. I asked for an Old Fashioned which wasn't on the menu, but he created one for me anyway. It's a drink well worth trying, if only for viewing the spectacle of it being created (a big lump of ice is carved into a perfect circle, the size of a tennis ball - and stirred up with whiskey, orange and bitters).

Six D.O.G.S (there were actually no dogs here)

How long to stay in Athens?

We spent 3 nights in Athens and it felt just about right. We saw what we'd planned to and didn't outstay our welcome.

Note: Athens was seriously hot when we went in August and as it's a built up city there's no wind or breeze in the city to cool you down. You are going to melt, but it's worth it. Efharisto.